I thought it would be fair to make one more box and show you in pictures how to make it with me. It took me about three hours in total and that doesn't include the little hand-stitching around the border at the top (visible on the blue lining on the bottom box).
Materials needed:
1. two pieces of fabric size: 45 cm x 13 cm
2. heavy fusible interfacing
3. embroidery thread (optional)
I will show you how to create a basic box, without any appliqué designs, nor embroidery. You could choose to decorate it as you wish. Make sure you work the design on the fabric that is for the face, prior to assemble the box.
Size: L x W x H : 8 cm x 8 cm x 6.5 cm
Here is how to make the fabric boxes.
I. Making the pattern:
Make your pattern on a squared paper: 1 square = 0.5 cm.The beauty of working with this type of paper is in the freedom that you have to make any size of pattern.
For this fabric box, I am working with the smallest pattern on the paper, that is 16 squares wide, or 8 cm and 12 squares in height, which equals 6 cm. The sides of the triangle, forming the bottom of the box, have to be at exactly 45° angle which is formed by 8 squares from the base.
Copy the pattern on a separate piece of paper.
II. Cutting the fusible interfacing
Draw the pattern four times on a fusible interfacing. Cut out the shape, 2-3 mm away from the lines. Do not leave allowance on the top side of the interfacing.
III. Cutting the fabric:
Copy the pattern four times on the fabric, used for lining the box. Allow 7 mm around the sides of the triangles (bottom side of the box) and both sides of the pattern. Allow 2 cm (I am allowing 22 mm, following the natural lines of the fabric) on the top line of the pattern. Cut the lining. In the same manner, draw the pattern for the face of the box, but allow only 7 mm on the top line (instead of 20 mm).
IV. Fusing the lining:
With the iron at medium heat, without steam, fuse the interfacing to the lining, fitting it into the middle, making sure the top side is not fused. There are will be enough layers of fabric there, that will even the thickness just perfectly. Interfacing the whole pattern to the top line, will make the edge of the box too bulky and dull looking.
V. Evaluating the allowances:
Measure the two layers of fabric. Evaluate your allowances. Make sure that the two layers of fabric are identical, except for the top line. The facing fabric has to be half way shorter. This is only a visual evaluation. The process of making continues in the next step.
VI. Constructing the top edge of the box:
With right sides together, pin the top line, making sure that both sides seams match perfectly. As you could see on the picture above, the facing fabric stays shorter on the top of the triangles that form the bottom of the box.
VII. Sewing the two fabrics together:
Sew the fabrics along the top line. Open the seam and press with an iron. Sew the side seem. It will form a cylindrical like shape. Open the seam and press (not shown in picture).
VIII. Hand stitching the top edge: (optional)
I love a little accents around the top edge of the basket. I used two strings of embroidery thread and a running stitch. For this particular basket, I stitched with two different colours.
Before we close the side seam, it would be best if we do the stitching around the edge. You could do any kind of embroidery. I wanted the beautifully weaved pattern on the fabric to stand out, that is why, I did not do anything too charming, just a simple running stitch. I did not even use a contrasting embroidery thread, but the ones that matched the flower on the fabric face.
IX. Sewing the box bottom side of the lining:
Starting from the side seam, pin two sides of the neighbouring triangles together. Continue with the other two until one opening is left. For the last two sides, pin only at the top, where all the triangle tips meet. The rest will be left open for turning the box right side out. Sew all the seams, leaving two thirds of the last seam open.
X. Sewing the bottom side of the box facing:
Pin all the neighbouring sides, without leaving an opening. Stitch.
XI. Cleaning the seams:
There will be two spots that you have to check and clean the seams - the seams that meat for the bottom of the lining and for the face. Flatten the tips of the triangles, cutting them out in a straight line. This will avoid bulkiness on the bottom of the box and will make it more stable . There still be a little movement when the box is empty. It will not behave like a box with a flat bottom. But on this pattern, there are no side seams and seams around the bottom, which gives the box cleaner look .
After cleaning the seams, turn the box right side out through the opening we have left in the lining. Press all the seams on the right side, starting with the one forming the bottom.
XII. Finishing:
Slip stitch the seam at the opening. Press and form the box.
Press all the edges of the cubes, despite the fact that there are no seams. This will give the box nice and sharp look.
Please, share your experience of making these. I would love to hear from you!
♥ IN
I love these! They look so sweet and sturdy, and your photos are beautiful. =)
ReplyDeleteThank you so much, Natasha! ♥
Delete<3!oh I love these! Thank you for the pattern instructions.
ReplyDeleteYou are so welcome, Stephanie! ♥
DeleteI am glad you like the pattern. Hope you make it!
Just beautiful.
ReplyDeleteThank you for sharing such creativity. Very inspiring.
I love your name, Ivelina.
♥️
Thank you so much, for the lovely words, Rosemary! ♥
DeleteSo cute!
ReplyDeleteThank you so much for this lovely tutorial! I've linked out to you from the FaveCrafts Blog: https://www.favecrafts.com/blog/fc/new-diy-storage-solutions/ Have a great day!
ReplyDelete